We were on the train when we realized Vienna waits for us. Coming out of Salzburg there were still alot of mountains, but they eventually gave way to rolling hills and broad valleys. The houses changed from chalets with broad eaves and balconies to another style whose name I don’t know, with walls painted in cheerful colors and always red clay roofs, and the occasional array of solar panels.
Our hotel was a funky building several hundreds of years old, with the entrance under an arch and deep down inside a space that was something between an alleyway and a courtyard, leading back in from the street and dividing the building into two halves. There were a couple of restaurants in the there with both indoor and and outdoor space. One was perfect for dinner that night and the other for breakfast the next morning.
The first stop for the next day was the Schönbrunn Palace, which was the main summer residence of the Hapsburg monarchs for over 300 years. Wow. Not only was it a genuine, bona fide palace with of apartments for the emperor and his family, and huge ballrooms where every bit of surface was a work of art, and as an added bonus, we finally understood what the ceramic stoves we’d been seeing in other places were all about — they were actually heaters for the rooms. Anyway, not only all that, but it was also the seat of government for a major world power. If the other castles were designed to impress and communicate wealth and power, this place was at a whole ‘nuther level. Everything about it was huge. It was a ten-minute walk from the front gate to the front door. And the back yard was a sprawling gardens with groves and paths, sculptures and fountains, a hedge maze, a zoo, and yes even a couple cafés. We spent the better part of the afternoon in the gardens, even solved the hedge maze. By then the weather was getting pretty hot, and remained so the rest of the trip.
The only thing I can compare it to is the Capital and the Mall in Washington, D.C. And now that I’ve seen the prototype, D.C. looks like a weird temple to the abstract concept of democracy, as opposed then some idiosyncratic persona of a particular ruler like in Vienna.
I should mention that the two most important rulers who lived there were the Empress Maria Theresa, back in the time of Mozart and the Holy Roman Empire, and Emperor Franz Joseph, who was also King of Hungary, who reigned from the mid-1800’s until near the end of World War I. Between the time of those two monarchs, a host of other nobles such as Marie Antoinette resided and ruled, with the Hapsburg at the center of an increasingly complicated and fragile web of alliances and powers struggles that extended through Europe and into Africa and the Americas. Napoleon came and went, Germany became a nation, and the industrial revolution happened, along with Adam Smith and Karl Marx. At the of Franz Josef’s day everything finally fell apart for the Austria-Hungarian Empire and all over Europe, and the last vestiges of the feudal systems that provided the world order for Christendom since the fall of the Roman Empire were finally swept away. Yay capitalism!
I must say it was interesting visiting the three cities in Austria in the order we did, because the stories told in the various museums and castles were all interconnected, and flowed into their final climax in Vienna.
For example Salzburg, which was a power center in an earlier time, suffered a major economic downturn in the 16th century because its gold mines we suddenly unprofitable after the bottom dropped out of the market due to the influx of looted gold from Mexico. Later on Franz Josef’s brother was Emperor od Mexico. Small world.
Also I should say Vienna is a much larger city than either Innsbruck of Salzburg, which are basically small towns of 100,000 or so. Vienna is close to two million. Also this was my first ever wholly urban vacation. On other trips I’ve visited say Albuquerque or San Francisco or Montreal, bit then also spent a few days skiing or hiking in the mountains or that kind of thing. This trip it was pretty much all cities. Nevertheless, we did a ton of walking. Most days we were over ten kilometers, and our highest day was eighteen.
I had tried to learn some German for the trip, and indeed heard people speaking it everywhere. The knowledge I had helped with reading signs and menus and that kind of thing. Listening in conversation was a bit harder cuz people speak fast, and speaking — well it was hard to string more than a few words together without taking time to think of the next word. My most commonly used word was “danke”. But it turns out everyone’s English is quite good, so it didn’t matter much.
That night we met up with my cousin Peter. Peter was born and raised in Ontario, Canada, and we were close when we were growing up, the closest of all my cousins. Even more itinerant than I was, Peter toured the States with his rock band in the days of his youth, lived in Florida for a decade or so, then Vancouver, and has been living in the EU for the last couple years. Like me, all of his grandparents were born in Hungary, which means he’s eligible for citizenship there. His girlfriend Kati is also Hungarian. She’s a friend of the family and stayed at my house for a few days when I lived in Brooklyn. Lizzy was a baby and Kati was a teenager on her first trip to Canada and the US, visiting New York City with my Uncle Ron, Peter’s Father. It was nice that she remembered me. And of course it was great to reconnect with Peter, we instantly picked up our rapport. It turns out Peter loves living in Europe, and Austria is much more chill than North America and work-life balance is much better. Even if you’re a kid with your first job at McDonald’s you get five weeks vacation.
We met in the old downtown, right in front of St. Stephen’s Cathedral. We has some time to kill before meeting up so we walked around the downtown and checked out a few of the big churches. St. Stephens was one, and it was gobsmackingly gorgeous outside and in. They must have been tuning the pipe organ because the whole time we were in there you could hear a single note being played for a minute or so, followed by another note a half-step up. There was another church around the corner, just as ornate if not quite as huge, and notable for a great big dome on top, complete with a little dome inside, with a painting of a dove representing the Holy Spirit at the very zenith.
So anyway, we met up with Peter and Kati and went out to dinner at a traditional Austrian restaurant, so more pancake soup and wienerschintzel. Yum yum. They also had a really good csirkepaprikás palacinta appetizer. When we were done with dinner it was raining out, so we went down the street to a nearby café and continued hanging out and talking. A little while later the rain ended and we went for a walk around the city. When he first moved to Austria Peter worked as a tour guide, so he was able to tell us alot about what we were seeing and is an engaging storyteller like his Dad. We ended up in a square in front of the city hall, where the Vienna Film Festival was going on with free outdoor screenings on a great big screen and a huge sound system and seating adjacent to an outdoor cafe. The movie was a performance of the Berlin Philharmonic doing what they do best: Beethoven, Mozart, Strauss, that whole bag. Very good music and alot of fun.
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Next day we started at the Hofburg, which we’d passed thru the night before. This was the former winter royal palace complex in the city the current seat of the national government. Across the plaza, much like the Smithsonian in the U.S.A., is a pair of museums, right on the Ringstraße, one for art and the other for natural history, founded by Franz Josef in the 1800’s. We picked the Kunsthistorisches, and it was the best art museum yet, considered on of the best art museums in the world. It held paintings by Rapheal, Rembrandt, Dürer (finally), Brughel (most famously the Tower of Babel), Michelangelo, lots of Rubens, and tons of others, with a heavy concentration on the renaissance. The building itself was impressive, with a grand marble stairways and an octagonal dome.
After that we walked around the Volksgarten and down the Ringstraße. Jeannie wanted to see the Danube, but it turned out it’s no big deal, basically just a canal that cuts through the city, at least in the neighborhood where we were. There was a cute little fake beach bar there.
That evening we met up with Peter again and went out to Prater Park, an amusement park embedded in a larger park in the heart of the city. The part itself dates back to the 12th century and the classic rides in the amusement park are from the 1800’s — original steampunk and very well maintained. Of course like everything else in Europe there’s just layer on layer of newer and older stuff. We ended up in a Biergarten, enjoying dinner and the summer evening ambience and quite a few beers.
Next morning we were up bright and early for the final leg of the journey, to Budapest.
