The train ride from Innsbruck to Salzburg came down out of the mountains, passed thru southern Germany, then climbed back up and re-entered Austria. So country number four. Traveling by rail you can get a glimpse of the regional economic activity as expressed by inventory of raw materials stacked up by the railroad sidings. There was a good amount of lumber in particular. Everything seemed a bit more human scale than at home, where it seems to be all massive depots dealing in huge quantities of shipping containers and not much else.
We arrived in Salzburg in the evening, in time for dinner. The hotel here was smaller than Innsbruck but had a similar décor, and a nice restaurant with pancake soup – another favorite Austrian dish. Michelle was particularly excited by this, but we all enjoyed it.
We slept in in the morning and had cappuccino and croissants and the hotel bar. Back on the tourist beat, our first stop was Hohensalzburg Fortress. Our cab driver drove right up to the bottom, thru the old town squares, scattering tourists in front of us like pigeons. To get up to the castle meant a ride on a funicular railroad. This on was apparently in in service since the 1800’s, with several upgrades along the way to the carriages, and built on top of an older, water-powered system dating back to the 1600’s.
Hohensalzburg was probably the largest and best preserved castle we saw, with large parts of it intact from the 1500’s. Of course it was built upon older castles, with parts going back to the 1200’s and the original foundations for the keep dating from the Romans. It too had it’s collections of paintings and artifacts, including a hall of puppets and puppetry, as well as a very well preserved chapel. Salzburg was a bit unusual in that it was for a long time ruled by a line of Archbishops as head of both church and state, in a quasi-independent province of the Holy Roman Empire. Images of the double-headed eagle abounded everywhere in Austria. The castle is high on a rocky hill and offers excellent views of the city and surrounding mountains and countryside.
Down at the town square again we had a lunch of beer and pretzels. The was a band playing there, consisting of a clarinet, accordion and standup bass, playing folk music. They were very good. The annual music festival was happening while we were in town, with events in all the churches and concert halls and castles. Alot like the Montreal jazz festival but for classical. Most of the venues were hundreds of dollars a seat, so we didn’t take in any of those, although the programs looked quite impressive. We did catch some free events, like the trio in the square at lunchtime.
Then there was another museum – I think it was called the Salzburg Museum – right in the main square with the statue of Mozart, with more artwork and artifacts. Honestly at this point it’s all running together in my mind, I’d have to look at the pictures we took. In any event we spent the rest of the afternoon walking around the old town, looking at shops and stuff.
Salzburg Cathedral was pretty spectacular. High Baroque style, overwrought with ornament o every available surface, yet somehow very elegant. For one thing, everything about the design was systematic, reflecting a deeply evolved expression of a total worldview. For another, it had five banks or organ pipes. One was up in back in the usual place. The other four were arrayed around the four corners of the large central open space, do doubt capable of producing genuine quadraphonic sound.
We had dinner outdoors at a restaurant in one of the squares. As we moved further east goulash began to appear on the menus as well as schnitzel, and spätzle as well as potatoes.
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Next day we started at Schloss Mirabell and the Mirabell Gardens, which was a short walk from our hotel. The palace and gardens date from the 1600’s. The gardens are beautiful, full of flowers and paths, and feature a large number of sculptures depicting figures and scenes from Greek mythology. Jeannie was really keen on the gardens since The Sound of Music was one of her favorite movies since the time she was a little girl. It was a perfect sunny day for enjoying them.
In the afternoon we split up and Jeannie and visited the Mozart house while the girls went looking at shops. The Mozart house was fascinating for several reasons, not the least of which is that building is over 700 years old, and so you get a sense of medieval urban architecture for a well-to-do private residence, with it’s courtyards and kitchens and apartments and all. Technology may change but the house design was still comfortable and not totally unfamiliar.
Mozart was of course a boy genius musical prodigy of the 1700’s who went on to become a great composer, and this was the house he grew up an and lived until his mid-twenties. His father was also a famous composer and taught young Wolfgang and took him on tours all over Europe to play for the likes of the Empress Maria Theresa. The house was full of artifacts including manuscripts, musical instruments, travel paraphernalia, and models and drawings of costumes and stage sets for his various operas. There was also a listening room with some of the highest fidelity speakers I have ever heard. I did not know that young Wolfgang’s first instrument was the violin and he switched to piano later when he decided to learn how to compose. I also didn’t know he had a sister who was supposedly the better keyboard player, and they toured together as a brother and sister act until she grew up and married.
He also has a chocolate and liqueur named after him.
